George Moore — Journal of a Voyage across the Atlantic

LOG, &c.

Saturday, 17th August, 1844, One o'clock, P.M.—Left Liverpool in the Great Western steamship, Captain Mathews, for New York, with 138 passengers. Wind N.W., blowing a strong gale. In two hours very few passengers on deck, the ship rolling heavily. At four discharged the pilot. At half-past twelve passed Holyhead. Went to bed rather squeamish at seven.

Sunday morning.—Rose at seven; was awakened by the stopping of the engine, from breaking a new wheel which had been put up to work the blowers for the fires. Detained an hour and half in consequence. Passed Tuskar at ten. Had public worship at one: the Church of England service, in which the name of the President of the United States was introduced: about seventy attended. No sermon, there being no minister on board, and the Captain not prepared.

The routine of each day appears to be this:—The gong sounds at half-past seven to rise; breakfast at nine; at twelve lunch; at half-past three dress for dinner; at four dine; half-past seven tea; very few take supper at ten; lights put out at eleven punctually.

At seven P.M. passed Cork; at nine Kinsale. 165 miles. Latitude, 51° 58' N.: Longitude, 6° 34'.

At three o'clock on Monday morning, the 19th, passed Cape Clear; and when I got on deck only a distant view of the most rugged part of Ireland to be seen. It is now eight o'clock, and the passengers are beginning to show themselves, the sea having gone down, and the ship going on smoothly 9-3/4 knots. Laid down the following rules, which I hope to be able to keep:—Rise at half-past seven; walk on deck till breakfast; read at least six chapters in the Bible the first thing after breakfast; then walk on deck for an hour till lunch; afterwards write for an hour; then walk on deck for another hour; then read any books I have till dinner; between dinner and tea walk and talk, and take stock of the passengers, being some of all sorts here; after tea whist till ten, and then turn in.

The weather continues very calm, and the sea smooth. This steamer, without exception, the easiest and most comfortable I have ever sailed in. About 100 dined to-day, and the general appetite appeared to be in a satisfactory state.

211 miles. Lat. 51° 32' N.; Long. 11° 59'.

Tuesday, the 20th, seven A.M.—A most beautiful morning. Spent the day as usual. During dinner the wind changed to E.N.E. Set all sail below and aloft, and the engine made 12 revolutions in the minute. It was now that I became acquainted with our worthy Captain, whom I found to be a gentlemanly, courteous, obliging little fellow. Heard some German, Irish, English, and Yankee songs; and turned in at half-past ten.

193 miles. Lat. 51° 26' N.; Long. 17° 3'.

Wednesday, the 21st.—Rose at my usual time. Fine weather. For the first time saw a sail, a brig, standing to the south, but too distant to exchange signals. The wind fair, but very light: the engine making 12-1/2 revolutions a minute, or 94 knots an hour. Spent the day as usual.

228 miles. Lat. 51° 24' N.; Long. 23° 6'.

Thursday, the 22nd.—The wind changed to south; and the passengers all on deck. The sea smooth; and the engine, after being well coaled, made 14 revolutions per minute. Some heavy card-playing on board, and imprudent losses, which I much regretted to see.

220 miles. Lat. 51° 5' N.; Long. 28° 54'.

Friday, the 23rd.—The ship rolling from a south swell; and a very small muster at breakfast. The ladies generally ill. The wind S.E., and the ship covered with canvas. Rate 11 knots by the Log. Wind freshened up to a sharp breeze from the West; and it is now nearly three days since I have been able to put pen to paper. During dinner all the sails taken in; and the heavy pitching of the ship sent all the grumblers from the table.

259 miles. Lat. 50° 33' N.; Long. 34° 59'.

Saturday morning, the 24th.—Read; talked; walked; lunched; walked and read again. At nine drank "wives and sweethearts;" and then to bed.

239 miles. Lat. 49° 27' N.; Long. 40° 55'.

Sunday, the 25th.—A beautiful morning, but rather foggy, as we began to approach the Banks of Newfoundland. Had a very pleasant day of reading. Had public service at one: sang the hymn of "Greenland's rocky mountain;" and Mr. Dodge, of New York, read a sermon of the Rev. Thos. Spencer's, written when he was sixteen years old, from the text "God is love." The sea calm, but very damp.

211 miles. Lat. 48° 15' N.; Long. 45° 51'.

Monday, the 26th.—A dense fog about the middle of the banks. Sea smooth. Going 9-1/2 knots. Spent the day as usual.

212 miles. Lat. 47° 5' N.; Long. 50° 44'.

Tuesday, the 27th.—Still foggy and dark, cold and comfortless. Saw lots of porpoises and whales, who walked away from us at their leisure, the steamer making miserable progress from want of steam, though wind and sea were favourable. Spent the day as usual.

209 miles. Lat. 45° 43' N.; Long. 55° 10'.

Wednesday, the 28th.—Sky beautifully clear; but the usual fog came on at ten, and the engines were stopped for soundings: 77 fathoms, white sand. Cape Race distant 60 miles.

229 miles. Lat. 44° 44' N.; Long. 60° 25'.

Thursday, the 29th.—Wind dead a-head, with a heavy sea. Only 7 knots; and many passengers in bed. At four o'clock the wind changed round, the sea smoothed down, and we had the most brilliant sunset I ever saw: it was past all description! It gave me a good impression of an American sun. The Yankees broke out into applause, and welcomed the face of Sol as that of an old and tried friend. Had a grand state-dinner to-day; and the passengers appeared to do ample justice to the viands. Passed a pleasant evening.

200 miles. Lat. 43° 4' N.; Long. 64° 14'.

We presented Captain Mathews with a memorial, signed by all the passengers, on his first trip as commander, he having been first mate to Capt. Hoskin in the Great Western ever since she was launched. He richly deserved a more substantial mark of our regard for his unremitting attentions.

The following was the Bill of Fare:—

BREAKFAST.

Dishes.

Beefsteaks

Omelets

Mutton Chops

—

Boiled Eggs

100

Pork Chops

Homony

Ham and Eggs

Hash

—

Fried Bacon

Mush

—

Fricasee Chicken

—

Fried Fish (Soles)

Veal Cutlets

Do. Potatoes

—

Stews

DINNER.

Soup--Mock Turtle

Boiled Fowls

pair

Boiled Fish--Salmon

Corned Beef

and Lobster Sauce

Corned Pork

—

Baked Fish

—

Ham

Roast Beef

Tongues

Saddles of Mutton

Fricandeau

—

Roast Lamb

Mutton Cutlets

Roast Turkey

Macaroni

Roast Veal

—

Curry

—

Roast Pig

Irish Stew

—

Olive Ducks

pair

Calf's Head

Roast Fowls

—

Roast Hare

Roast Geese

Lobster Patties

Boiled Mutton

Chicken Salad

Gullenteen Turkeys

PASTRY.

Plum Pudding

Mince Pies

Apple Dumpling

Damson Pies

—

Raspberry Rollers

Cherry Pies

Baked Apple Pudding

Rice Pudding

Apple Pies

Orange ditto

Cranberry Pies

Custard ditto

—

Raspberry Puffs

Bergnets

—

Plum Pies

Brandy Fruits

WINES, JELLIES, AND BLANCHEMANGE.

August 29th, 1844.

Friday.—Saw land to-day for the first time since we left Cape Clear; and heartily sick of the Atlantic. Saw Lantucket at two P.M. The atmosphere mild and warm. Paid my wine-bill to Crawford, the head steward, a black; who, by the way, had got well threshed for nigger-driving the second steward. Finished my letters for England in hopes of catching the Boston steamer, which leaves New York at five P.M. on Saturday.

210 miles. Lat. 41° 18' N.; Long. 68° 18'.

Saturday.—A beautiful morning. The wind changed. All the passengers on deck. The pilot (who had come out 160 miles to get the job, a very intelligent fellow) lent me a New York paper. A good many vessels in sight. Came close to Long Island. All bustle and confusion packing. Our boat did her best, but we saw we should be too late for the mail. Got to Sandy Hook at five; the Narrows at six; and up the East River at seven. Passed Fort Hamilton; and at half-past seven landed in New York.

The confusion on landing baffled all description. Hundreds of pickpockets were on the look-out. We sojourned at the Astor House Hotel. Had a warm-bath, and retired to rest grateful that I was once more on Terra firma.

265 miles. Passage altogether 3022 miles in fourteen days.

Sunday, 1st September.—Rose at six. Took a car with my companion, Mr. K——, of Liverpool, and went down to the Great Western for our luggage. We met with great civility from the Custom-house officers. They would not allow luggage to pass after sunset the previous evening. After breakfast we heard service at Dr. Spring's Chapel, a Presbyterian: a beautiful chapel, and a respectable congregation, and all in their pews before the minister ascended the pulpit: the text was, "The Lord reigneth:" the singing was good: the service terminated at twelve. The weather awfully hot: the thermometer stood at 92° in the shade. Dined at half-past two: 300 sat down to a splendid dinner, everything that could tempt the appetite or please the epicure. Tea at seven; and supper at ten, if required.

I may here remark that Astor House is the largest hotel in the world. They make up five hundred beds regularly, but could make up eight hundred: about sixty waiters; five regular clerks; twenty-one washerwomen; five manglers (all of which is done by steam); twelve cooks. Take it for all in all,

"I ne'er shall see its like again."

Their system is as much carried out as Morrison's, Fore-street. You never have occasion to ring the bell twice: they have twenty rotunda men who do nothing else but answer bells and carry out parcels. My first impression of New York on the Sunday morning was that it resembled Paris.

Population, 350,000. Lat. 40° 42' N.; Long. 74° 2-1/2'.

I here subjoin the Bill of Fare. For eating and bed two dollars per day, including servants.

GENTLEMEN'S ORDINARY.

SOUP.

Mock Turtle Soup.

FISH.

Baked Black Fish, Claret sauce,

Clam Chowder.

BOILED.

Corned Beef,

Chickens and Pork,

Ham,

Smoked Corned Beef,

Tongue,

Leg of Mutton.

—————

Cold Pressed Corned Beef,

Cold Corned Leg of Pork,

Cold Roast Beef,

Cold Roast Lamb.

SIDE DISHES.

Lobster Salad,

Small Birds, Port Wine sauce,

Mutton Chops, breaded,

Small Oyster Pies,

Rib of Beef, Champagne sauce,

Ducks, Spanish sauce,

Pigeons with fine Herbs,

Veal, Tomato sauce,

Broiled Chickens, Steward's

Macaroni,

sauce

Eels, Cold Sauce,

Calf's Head, Brain sauce,

Beans and Pork.

VEGETABLES.

Boiled Potaotes,

Onions,

Boiled Rice,

Corn,

Turnips,

Beets,

Tomatoes,

Cabbage,

Fried Egg Plants,

Shelled Beans.

ROAST.

Beef,

Chicken,

Pig,

Geese,

Lamb and Mint sauce.

PASTRY.

Peach Pie,

Kisses,

Lemon Pudding,

Custard Pie,

Fruit Jelly.

DESSERT.

Filberts, Almonds, Raisins, Oranges, Figs, Plums,

Apples, Pears, Melons, Peaches, &c.

ICE CREAM.

MOSELLE.

Seister Water

Price per bottle,

Moselle, 1831

SAUTERNE.

Sauterne

Morton's Y. Chem

Pints

HOCK.

Markgraefer, delicate

Rudeshoimer, 1834, pints

Marcobrunner

Steinberger Cabinet, 1831

Sparkling Hock

Ausbruck Cabinet Rothenberg of 1831

Ausbruck Cabinet Graffenburg, 1831

Ausbruck Cabinet Rothenburg, 1822

Cabinet Schloss Johannisberger, 1822

Prince Metternich's Castle, bottled, yellow seal, 1831

Metternich's Castle, bottled, red seal, 1822

Prince Metternich's celebrated Castle, bottled, gold seal, Johannisberger vintage 1822

CHAMPAGNE.

Schreider

Napoleon

Cliquot

Heidsieck

Ruinart

Perriot

Star

Venoge, J.T.B.

Duc de Montabello, dry

Do. do. sweet

Do. do. Ladies' wine

Pints do. do.

CLARET.

Table Claret

Do. do.

Pints of Barsolou

St. Estephe, V. Barsalou

St. Julien, do.

Leoville, do.

Pontet Canet, do.

Chateau Latour, do.

Battailly, Barton, and Guestier, 1834

Chateau Beychevelle, do. 1834

Mouton, do. 1834

Latour, do. 1834

Chateau Lafitte, do. 1834

Chateau Margeaux, do. 1834

St. Julien, in pint bottles, V.B.

Leoville do. do.

Pontet Canet, do. do.

Latour, do. do.

Lafitte

PORT.

Particular

Tower

Brazil

BURGUNDY.

Macon

Do. pints

Pouilly, White Burgundy

Do. do. pints

Pomard

Chambertin

Romanee

Vosne

SHERRY.

Harmony, Amontillado, delicious

Sherry, Pale, N.O.

Sherry, S.S.

Yriarte, Pale, delicate

Yriarte, Gold G.

Crowley (Sayres) Gold

Do. do. Brown, extra

Do. do. Amontillado

Imperial, Pale

Brown, imported in glass

Romano, do. very old

Romano, Pale, very old

Lobo, Brown, FO, long bottled

Ne Plus Ultra

MADEIRA.

Henry Clay, imported into Boston in 1826.

Madeira, F.B.

Madera Oliveiro

L.P. Madeira

Blackburne's

Blackburne's Reserve

Howard, March, and Co.'s Madeira, imported for the Astor House, F.

Newton, Gordon, and Murdock's (GM)

Oliveires Reserve, 17 years old

E.I. Leacock, old, dry

Leacock, M.L., imported, 1826, into New Orleans

Murdock, Yuille, and Woodrope, MY

Yellow Seal, original N.G.M. delicate

D.V. Sercial, very delicate

Brazil, V.I. very old, a favourite wine

Brown Seal, old Monteiras, 'superior'

Nabob

Red Seal, old, bottled, East India

Eclipse Madeira

Rapid, imported 1818

Green Seal, Virginia Madeira, light and very delicate

White Top, very old and delicate

Thorndike, very old and 'superior'

Edward Tuckerman, Esq., Scott, Laughnan, Penfold,and Co.'s, imported 1820, P.M.

Gratz, yellow seal, 1806

Do. green seal, 1806

Do. black seal, 1806

Do. red seal, bottled 1806

Wanton, exceedingly delicate, thirty years in wood, W.

John A. Gordon's Madeira, imported into Philadelphia 1798

Caroline, an old family-wine

Gordon, Buff, Inglis, and Co.'s, imported by H.G. Otis

and Edward Tuckerman, Esq., 1811, G.

Stalk's Madeira, bottled in Calcutta, imported 1825

Hurd's Madeira, bottled in 1822 in Calcutta

Essex, Jr., imported 1819

Smith and Huggins, Dyker's White top, bottled in 1800 in St. Eustatia

Tuckerman's B., 1810

Thorndike's A., 1809

Wedding Wine

Gov. Philip's Wine

Gov. Kirby's original bottles, OO

Monday morning, the 2nd.—After breakfast despatched three-quarters of a hundred newspapers to my old and valued friends in England. They keep no stock on hand for promiscuous sale: they printed them on purpose for me. After which I visited the business parts. All the streets filled with empty cases, which they had just cleared for the Fall trade: auctioneers hammering away in all corners, knocking goods about as if they cost nothing. In the stores there appears no system—all is confusion. The heat was awful till seven P.M., when the rain came down in torrents: at the same time the atmosphere was brilliantly lighted by flashes of electric fire. Took Mr. and Mrs. Green to the Park Theatre, to patronize Anderson as Othello, Miss Clara Ellis as Desdemona, and a Mr. Dowsett as Iago, all of whom crossed with us. A poor set out. Theatrical property in the States, I understand, is at a greater discount than in England. Poor Mr. Simpson, whom I sat next to in my passage, is the proprietor—a worthy man, and much esteemed. To bed at eleven.

Tuesday.—A long day of business. Observed with regret their loose mode. All busy; and they appear to think good times will last for ever. Nearly all have failed at one time or the other. Bankers discounting liberally at present; and all appear to be trying who can sell cheapest. Retired to rest at eleven, lost in amazement, and the reflection that this state of things cannot last long.

Wednesday.—Ascertained the geography of the town pretty well; and so I ought, for I walked till I was nearly red in the face, and my shirt wet through. Engaged at the present moment, ten P.M., writing this, with all my bedroom windows open, and in my shirt. Hot! HOT!! VERY HOT!!!

Thursday.—Called upon Mr. J.J. Echalaz, at Goodhue and Co.'s, where I received marked attention from both Mr. E. and his employers. When I introduced my letters from E.B. Webb, at Baring's, got some valuable information, and letters of introduction to Philadelphia, Boston, Baltimore, Washington, and Canada. Afterwards took a turn amongst the retail-shops, to see their system. Mr. Stewart, Broadway, and a few others, are done upon the London style, but the lower class take any price they can get. Disco-

[Transcriber's Note: One page of text is missing here (page 15 in the original work).]

superintendent has a higher object than his pay. God grant that he may long be spared!—We then saw the avenues; and, as "variety is charming," we then visited Niblo's Theatre—something like what Vauxhall was: lots of handsome girls performing nonsense; and two or three men, more particularly one named Mitchell, kept us in roars of laughter. Bussed it home: no conductor: the driver has a strap with which he shuts and opens the door, and you pay him through a hole in the roof. To bed at eleven. Began to like my companion very much: found him a sober, religious, industrious man, who studies to make himself agreeable.

Friday morning.—Bought a lot of books, new publications, at desperately low prices: bought also a capital map of the United States and Canada for 10 dollars to send to Bow Churchyard, to show my journey when I return to Europe. Afterwards had a long consultation with my old friend and fellow-apprentice, Joseph Blane, who is in prosperity, esteemed by all who know him, and in possession of the best information about the standing of the different parties in the dry-goods trade. Spent the remainder of the day with George Pearce, and was rather favourably impressed with the object I had in view in taking this voyage. It is now ten, and I smoke my solitary cigar, having confined myself to one since my arrival.

Saturday morning.—Full of business all day. Had interviews with Brown Brothers, (the Rothschilds of America,) from whom I received marked kindness and attention, and most liberal offers to transact our money operations. Also spent an hour with Pickersgill and partners, who had been doing our business, and was much pleased with their straightforward manner. Also saw Mr. Ebbets, at the Union Bank, whom I found a business man. Heard all their propositions, and reflected upon them. Dined with Mr. Pearce, and stuck to my writing till seven o'clock. Then called upon Mr. Green; and he came and had an oyster supper with me. And I may here observe, they beat us altogether in cooking oysters: they fry, stew, roast, boil, and have every imaginable way of cooking them. Took a warm-bath to finish the week, and not before I required it, as I have been wet through every day with perspiration since I came here. To bed at ten.

Sunday morning.—Rose fresh. Had my head shampooed and cleaned in a most extraordinary manner. Breakfasted, and to St. John's Episcopal Church, and heard a very good sermon by Dr. Milliner: I forget the text, although I was much impressed with the discourse. Returned to the Astor, where my old friend, Joseph Blane, was waiting to take me to his house to dine. He has the best house I had been in yet—774, Broadway; not living, like most of the New York merchants, at hotels, lodgings, or boarding-houses. Introduced to his wife, whom I found a delightful woman—of French extraction, but Yankee-born. Was introduced to Mr. Deseze, Mrs. B.'s brother-in-law, a Frenchman, who fought under Napoleon at Waterloo, and was offered to retain his commission by Louis XVIII., but he declined it. This was one of the pleasantest days I had spent since I left my own fireside. It brought old recollections to my memory that had long been buried—scenes of my boyhood, when Blane and I were serving our apprenticeship in Wigton. In the evening we went to Palmo's Opera-house, to hear Dr. Lardner, of Heaviside notoriety. It was his second lecture on the "Evidences of Religion afforded by the Phenomena of Nature, and the Consistency of Science with Divine Revelation." We were much pleased. He is the most complete elocutionist I ever heard, and impressed a crowded audience with his sublime subject. What a melancholy loss to England by his one false step, that degraded him in moral society! Walked to the Astor, and took one cigar each, when Mr. B. told me he was collecting charity for the poor widow of H. W——s, who had left her without a shilling to support four helpless children. He had 6000 dollars a year, and Mr. F. discharged him for intemperance. He took to his bed, and died of a broken heart. I envied this man, when I lived with him at F.'s, for his position. Gave his widow 50 dollars; and to bed.

Monday morning.—Had a long interview with Prime, Ward, and King, the first house here whom I had letters to from Barings and Overend, and Gurney. They gave me all the information in their power, and introduced me to Mr. Halford's agent, a bill-broker, 46, Wall-street. Was occupied till dinner writing to Bow Churchyard, and had Mr. Pearce to dine with me. Dr. Keene called in the evening, and we took steam-boat (as large as six of the Margate boats) to Holboken. Had a delightful walk by the Hudson River, and saw some Indians, real Natives, with whom I was much struck. Returned by a steam-boat, still larger and more crammed: I should think there must have been 2000 souls, with lots of trotting-horses, and gigs from 70 lbs. to 120 lbs. weight each, returning from a trotting-match. Heard some extraordinary grasshoppers, which repeated "Kate she did!" and "Kate she didn't!" quite distinctly. Thence, for the first time, to a mobocracy meeting, where they expressed awfully Liberal opinions—"Polk and Dallas for ever!" The room, a very large one, was crammed to suffocation: I should think there were 5000 wedged in, and I should say the thermometer stood at 106°. Liberal as I am, I went no length to them. Beat all the speeches I ever heard. Dan. O'Connell, Tom Duncombe, and the late Hunt and Cobbett were fools to them. Home again with a wet shirt, and to bed.

Tuesday morning.—Received letters of introduction from Goodhue and Co. to Philadelphia, Boston, Baltimore, Canada, and Washington. Had a long talk with Mr. M., 60, Cedar-street. Introduced by Pearce, about my intended trip: found him very useful. Received an order from a good house, without soliciting them. Wrote and finished my letters home per Great Western. Mr. Blane, and my old friend Brough, the performer, dined with me. Was introduced to Capt. M'Lean, of the Swallow, running to Albany; and then walked with Mr. R., of Manchester, down to the Battery: a beautiful walk. To the Castle Garden, where there was another Polk meeting, which I should think 10,000 people attended. Lots of Liberality again. The Fort close to this is a splendid affair. Came by White Hall back to the Astor, and wrote a long letter to my wife; and, as it is just now ten o'clock, good night!

Wednesday morning.—Bought three splendid racoon skins—one each for Mr. Groucock, Mr. J. of Liverpool, and self, for our carriage driving-boxes (Mr. J. having put upon my finger a magnificent diamond ring very unexpectedly when I was leaving my native shore, as a mark of gratitude for a disinterested act on my part towards him long, long ago, which he considered had been the groundwork of his fortune:) also some tobacco to pack in them, to prevent them spoiling. Then saw over the Custom-house, which is a very fine building; and the Exchange. Business is not done here as it is in London. Mr. Vyse, Mr. Palin, and I then visited the Tombs. Prisoners do not remain here long. If the sentence is long, they are sent to Blackwood's Island. The prisoners here are kept clean, have well-aired cells, and are allowed to walk about at their pleasure. They get only two meals a day: a quart of coffee or more, and as much bread as they can eat. Dinner at three, with plenty of beef and bread. For very long sentences they are sent to Sing-Sing, up the North River, and Auburn state-prisons. We then visited the Sessions-house, where there is no distinction between judges, counsel, or prisoners—all are in plain dress, spitting about in all corners. Heard an eloquent counsel defending a prisoner. Saw the lock-up, the warder's and grand jury rooms. Altogether the Tombs is a very fine building. Saw where the memorable J.C. Colt destroyed himself immediately after he was married, and two hours before he would have been hanged. We passed Washington Hall, where many a fine fellow has been ruined by gaming and drinking; and dined at Astor House, where I was told it for a positive fact they take 500 dollars a day ready money for drinks of brandy by people standing. They pay 40,000 dollars a year rent. We then took a drive, saw Mr. Vyse's fine horse and sulky, and spent an hour at his apartments, which are first-rate: then to Trenton Hall to see a Mr. Green, a reformed gambler, who exposed the rascality of gaming of all sorts, and taught me how to know the cards by their backs. I was much interested, and bought his "Life," with its scandalous exposures. Saw Captain M'Arthey, who shot his brother in a duel, and has been distracted ever since. To bed at eleven o'clock.

Thursday morning.—Called upon Prime, Ward, and King, for letters of introduction for my future route. Read P. and S.'s articles of partnership. Wrote another long letter to my wife. Put Mr. Dowden's commission into Mr. Pearce's hands, and Mr. Carrick's into Mr. Brough's, who has friends at Vicksburgh. Bought my wife a handsome rocking-chair. Then walked down to see the Queen of the West, the finest packet-ship I ever saw. Visited the different markets: saw lots of fruit, but do not think they touch us in anything but apples; tasted a large pumpkin, but did not like it. Dined at the Astor; paid my bill, and packed up. To bed at ten.