Thursday.—Rose early, much refreshed—as I forgot to mention that, although our beds at Baltimore were entirely covered with net, I was afraid I should have been eaten alive with mosquitoes. Washington is called a capital, having a portion taken from Virginia and Maryland for the senators' use. It is a long straggling town, with very wide streets; called by some the city of magnificent distances, but, more properly speaking, it might be called the city of magnificent intentions. It is located in the district of Colombia—a territory of ten miles square, formed into a separate and detached jurisdiction by the constitution of the United States. The city was laid out by General Washington, and Congress took up its abode there in 1800. The Capitol is situated in an area of twenty-two and a half acres; is a splendid building, on an eminence close to the Potomac river. The Hall of Representatives is in the second story of the south wing, and is of the form of the ancient Grecian theatre. There are twenty-four columns of variegated native marble from the banks of the Potomac. There is a splendid portrait of Lafayette, and another of Washington, by Vanderlyn. Their present speaker is Mr. White—elected the same as ours. The rotunda is very imposing. In its centre stands the great statue, by Greenough, of Washington; and around the walls are the various pictures ordered by Congress—"The Declaration of Independence," "The Surrender at Saratoga," "The Surrender and Capitulation at York Town," and "Washington resigning his Sword at Annapolis," all by Trumbull. I was much struck with Chapman's great picture of "The Baptism of the Indian Princess Pocahontas, before her Marriage with Rolph, the Englishman." The Vice-President of the United States presides in the Senate-house: his salary is only 5000 dollars, and the President's 25,000 dollars. In the library are portraits of Tyler, Adams, Jefferson, Washington, Madison, Munro, and Peyton; also Randolph, the first president in 1774 and 1775, and Hancock, the second. Congress meets on the 1st December, and sits till June. Representatives are paid two dollars a-day. The rotunda has been the inaugural scene of General Jackson, Van Buren, and General Harrison. It was here Lawrence, the maniac, attempted the life of General Jackson. The statuary in the rotunda is, "William Penn's Treaty with the Indians:" he is in the act of delivering the treaty to a couple of chiefs. There is "The Indian Princess Pocahontas rescuing Capt. Smith from the Indians." There is "Boone's Combat with the Indians;" and over the eastern door is represented "The Landing of the Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth." They were persecuted in England, and fled to New England, amongst wild savages, enemies to civilization and Christianity. The Puritans landed at Plymouth (Massachusetts), and commenced the first English settlement. The Capitol cost 3,000,000 dollars. There are fifty-two senators, and twenty-two representatives.
The President's house is in the western part of the city; and stands on a plot of twenty acres, forty-four feet above the Potomac. It is 170 feet front, and eighty-six deep; built of freestone, with Ionic pilasters. It was shown to us by one Martin Renehan, an Irishman; and as the President was absent, we visited all the rooms, which were meanly furnished—indeed, carpets and chair-bottoms worn out; a common pine dining-table, which the Prince de Joinville, Lord Ashburton, Lord Morpeth, Mr. Fox, and Mr. Pakenham, our present minister, with others, to the number of forty-four (they never have more), dined off. My house is much better furnished; and the President only keeps eighteen servants, including master of the household, &c. The private drawing-room is the best, but that is bad. We saw the bed General Harrison died in. We visited the Treasury department: this is a noble structure, 457 feet in length, and after the architecture of the temple of Minerva, at Athens. There are 250 rooms. It is adjoining the department of state. The Post-office is of the Corinthian style, marble front. The plan is a parallelogram, 204 feet in extent, and sixty-five wide. The Patent-office is 280 feet in length, and seventy in depth, where patents are taken out at the cost of 30 dollars. We saw one that astonished us not a little—a machine for making railways, called a Pile-driver, which makes a railway over a lake, swamp, or forest, and finishes it straight away. It is in operation in the southern states, and found to answer, at one-tenth the cost in England. It is so incredible, I will not describe it. There is another, called the Excavator, that bores through hills, &c. and quickens the work fiftyfold to manual labour. Both these are worked by steam, and the most incredible inventions I ever saw. Otis is the inventor of the latter. There is also a screw-patent in operation in Rhode Island. In the spacious room above are preserved Washington's equipments in war-time. They are uncostly, plain, and humble, showing the unostentatious mind of the great man. Here are all the presents from different courts: members of the United States Government are not allowed to keep them. There is a costly diamond snuffbox from the Emperor of Russia; and a large bottle of pure attar of roses, three times the price of gold. There are portraits of Gortez, conqueror of Mexico in 1521; of Columbus, the discoverer of America; of Cuvier, the French naturalist; and one I was much struck with, by Spagnoletti, of Job and his three friends (see Job xiv.): also one of Wat Tyler!
We visited the old departments of Government, State, War, and General Government. The rooms of the various secretaries are furnished plainly. We were disappointed at the Navy Yard—no appearance like England. The first object introduced was a piece of cannon taken from the English fleet when Sir George Cockburn came up the Potomac. The sight of this gave me a chill, as it was the first time I had ever seen England's arms in other powers' possession. The name of Sir George Cockburn is hated, as he would have destroyed recklessly, had not Ross, a Fifeshire man, restrained him. Ross's memory is as much loved as the other's is hated. This was in 1814. On the left is the house of the commandant of the yard—a captain in the navy. They make anchors, blocks, and tackle of all sorts for ships' use. There are several hundred men usually employed at the yard. Several first-rate vessels have been built here. They told us that they sunk several of their vessels here when they heard of their defeat at Bladensburg; but I guess it was the English that sunk them. There are many more sights, but our time would not allow us to tarry.
I had much wished to have gone down to Charlestown, and then into the far West; but the contemplation of slavery, the pain of living in the constant intercourse with slave servants, and the awfully hot weather, which might have caused me to take the fever—added to all, my great anxiety to receive letters from England—particularly from my wife, from whom I had now been absent five weeks without hearing—the pleasures of memory having almost kindled into the charming reminiscences of my first love—decided me to take my course North again; and I must acknowledge I left Washington with regret, and the contemplation that, ere many years roll over, it will be a magnificent city. I may here remark there is a telegraph, or galvanic power, fixed between the Capitol and Baltimore, that takes the news forty miles in a second. This is a good line of single rails, which they all are. At Baltimore we took steam up the Pennsylvanian states to Frenchtown—about sixty miles; and thence rail twenty miles to Newcastle; thence steam up the Delaware to Philadelphia; thence rail to Amboy, through Burlington, Bordingtown, and Hidestown. Amboy is only five miles from the Atlantic, where we came in from England. We came up Staten Island Sound, with New Jersey on the left, and passed Elizabeth Port and Payrosville, and saw Newark and the Pacific river about eight miles in the distance: then passed the Narrows, Governor's Island, Ellis and Gibbet Islands, and arrived at the Battery at seven, after travelling 400 miles in twenty-seven hours. Received my letters at the Astor, and was pleased with their news: retired to rest very tired, after my companion had read two chapters in the Bible to me, which has been our custom since we came together.
I have now seen enough of the independent states of America to convince me that Henry Clay is the proper man for President. The whole tenor of his life has been for his country's good. He feels the moral degradation the states of Pennsylvania, Indiana, Illinois, and Mississippi have brought upon his country by repudiation; and he would, if returned, advocate appropriating the waste lands to paying their debts. He would also veto annexing Texas and the Oregon territory, and by such means keep the southern and northern states from collision. My humble opinion is, if the southern states get hold of Texas, as their interests are diametrically opposed to the interests of the North, all they require is a little more strength to set about a separation.
Saturday morning.—Rose dissatisfied with the Astor, they having placed us four stories high to sleep. Called upon several friends in the course of the day. Nothing particular in view. In the evening visited the Chatham Theatre, a regular Yankee place, to see the original Mr. Rice perform a burlesque Othello!! and the farce Here's a Go! He acted to admiration, and sang lots of Nigger songs, amongst which his masterpiece, "Jump Jim Crow," was encored three times. He placed us in a private box, and we spent half an hour with him. A more gentlemanly man I never met. He is retiring upon a fortune made of £10,000. Home and to bed at eleven.
Sunday morning.—Mr. Pearce called for me to go and spend the day at Staten Island, at the Pavilion, where, he was stopping. We took a long drive past the Quarantine, where the doctor boarded the Western. Saw the Hospitals, Fort George, the Telegraph, and the very handsome buildings of Mr. Goodue and Mr. Brown, and a magnificent marble building called "The Sailor's Snug Home:" an Englishman left the money to build it. And I was then introduced to the Flandens, Mr. Pearce's family, and Mr. De la Forest, the French consul, a relative. Dined, and returned to the Astor. Paid my bill, and ready to start up the North River for Albany in the morning.