VISIT TO THE CANADAS; NIAGARA; RETURN TO NEW YORK & BOSTON; AND VOYAGE HOME.
Monday, September 24, 1843.—We proceeded on board the Empire, Capt. S.K. Roe, bound to Troy and Albany. Her length is 330 feet, one-sixteenth of a mile; breadth of beam, 30 feet; extreme width, 62 feet; burden, 1040 tons; and 600-horse power: only draws 4 ft. 10 in. water. She is past all description. The Hudson River, the sources of which are in 44° N. lat., was discovered by Henry Hudson in 1609. We passed Jersey City and Stevens's Seat, celebrated for American steam-boats. The mantle of Fulton may be said to have fallen upon him. We then passed West Hoboken and the Beacon Race-course. Seventeen miles down we passed Philipsburgh, an old Dutch settlement. At the Tappan Sea the river is three miles broad. The Sing-Sing state-prison is in view at Nyack; and the Croton River comes in about two miles from here. Thence Vrededicker Hook, on the top of which there is a clear crystal lake of three or four miles circumference. Thence we pass Stony Point. It really is past description, and would occupy a book to do justice to the magnificent scenery. Passed Anthony's Nose, Buttermilk Falls, Sugar Loaf, West Point scenery, and the Capitol Hotel. There is a public edifice for 250 cadets. The academy was built in 1802. We then pass West Point Foundry. The highland scenery is sublime. We then pass Newburgh, and come in sight of the Catskill mountains, the highest (say 3000 feet) in the States: we did not ascend them, although report says we should have been repaid. We arrived at Albany at six o'clock. Population of Albany, 25,000; the capital of New York State.
Tuesday morning.—Looked through the State House—a fine building. The Congress Hotel we found comfortable. Nothing worth noticing in the town. We took stage and passed Rensselaer's Estate all the way to Troy. The cause of dispute is the doubt the farmers have that one of the Dutch kings did not give and covenant the seestates, which the Van Rensselaer can prove by parchment: thus the tarring and feathering is done. Troy population is 40,000: a nice town, with a splendid arsenal, 156 miles from New York. The Hudson is navigable no farther. We took a chaise to the Shaker Village of Watervleit, where we found a Shaker settlement of about 120 people: there are three more in the neighbourhood; in all about 400. At this place they have 2000 acres of good land, their own: they grow everything they eat, and are all teetotallers. We entered the house where the Shaker manufactures are sold. We purchased a few dollars' worth, and they politely presented my friend and I with a book each. The old gentleman and lady were very civil, and showed us over the gardens, where they grow seed for sale, which is sold by Wilcox, London. They are famed for it all over the world. Pine-apples are growing in abundance; also water-melons, tomatoes, &c. The place was in beautiful order, and they appeared happy. They declined to show us the chapel, or the lady Shakers. They all live in single blessedness, and devoted to a life of celibacy. They are called Shakers from their peculiar form of adoration, which consists of a dance, performed by the men and women of all ages, advancing and retiring in a preposterous sort of trot. All the possessions and revenues of the settlement are thrown into a common stock, which is managed by the elders. They are capital farmers, and good breeders of cattle; honest and just in their transactions; and are the only class of people, either gentle or simple, that can resist thievish tendencies in horse-dealing. We returned to Lansingburgh, where packers of beef live, or rather butchers, where they kill and cut bullocks up by steam, as many as 20,000 in the season. At Cincinnati in the West they kill 3000 pigs a-day, or 1,000,000 a-year, in the same way. Back to Troy to dinner, and took railway to Saratoga Springs. This is a beautiful place, and the water is most beautiful. From every part of the states they flock here for three months in the Summer. Population of residents, 2500. New York drapers open stores here. I tasted the Congress spring, Colombian, the Putnam, and one other, all of which tasted very much like German Seltzer water, but very purgative. The United States Inn was our quarters, kept by Mr. Murvin and Judge Murvin. They dine in the season 1000 and 1100 a-day, and lodge regularly between 600 and 700. I cannot speak too highly of this house. Mr. Murvin accompanied us next morning by stage to White Hall, along with Mr. Blanchard, the proprietor of all the stages on this line—a fine fellow. We went along the Champlain Canal, which connects the Hudson River and Lake Champlain, past Glen's Falls. We passed through the region of Burgoyne's operations, near the place of his surrender; Fort Miller, and Fort Edward, where Miss M'Crea was murdered; and the tree to which General Putnam was bound in 1757. This fifty miles was the most frightful travelling I ever had. Great black bears prowl here. Trees and planks were frequently laid across the road to fill up holes; and frequently there would be openings in bridges that a horse could have gone slap into. After many, as I supposed, hairbreadth escapes, going two or three feet into holes, &c., we arrived at White Hall—at the junction of the canal and lake navigation—a place of business before the revolution. Major Skeen lived here. We took the steam-boat Saranac, Capt. Lathorp, who politely gave my companion and I a state-cabin. This lake, for beauty of scenery and historical incident, is one of the most interesting in America. It is close to Lake George, which lake, I regret to say, the boats were taken off for the winter. Lake Champlain was discovered by Samuel Champlain in 1609, and extends to St. John's, Canada, 120 miles. We passed Ticonderoga, which was an important military post during the colonial wars. General Abercrombie was defeated here, with the loss of 1941 men, in 1758. Burgoyne was here. We then passed Crown Point, where the British Government expended two millions sterling. We met the Burlington steamer, the most neat and beautiful boat in the United States: were introduced to Captain R.W. Sharman, the beloved commander. This is halfway—an important town of 3000 people. It is the seat of the University of Vermont, as we are now in that state. We then passed Port Kent, Valcour Island, and Plattsburgh, which is situated at both sides of the Saranac River. It is a military post. Here there was a great battle both by land and water: the British land-force was commanded by Sir George Prevost, and the naval by Commodore Downie; the Americans by land General Macomb, and water Commodore M'Donough. They fought two hours and twenty minutes, and the British surrendered. We passed Cumberland-house to the United States line, which has recently been settled by treaty by Lord Ashburton and Mr. Webster.
We here entered Canada, and laid quiet till morning, it being foggy. The Isle Aux Noix is the first military post of the English. We arrived at St. John's at seven. This is the extremity of Lake Champlain, which is here checked by the commencement of the Chambly Rapids to the St. Lawrence. We visited the British barracks. The 81st Regiment was stationed here. This fort sustained a siege of six weeks before it surrendered to General Montgomery in November, 1775. We breakfasted, and proceeded to Montreal by railway, or rather to Laprairie, a dirty town, and crossed the St. Lawrence in a steam-boat. Montreal has 40,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of the Provincial Government. It looks like an old English town.
I may observe that the thermometer stands here to-day at 50°, and was a week ago at 94°. The sudden change has nearly knocked me up. Starved to death, and no fires, except on the floor. Not much comfort in the Exchange Hotel; dirty bedrooms and small. Admired the Roman cathedral: the bell is seven tons weight: it is one of the finest in the world. And the docks are first-rate, with lots of shipping. All bustle and business. Walked about the town. Saw the Courthouse, the Parade-ground, and all the principal buildings. To bed—tired, cold, and weary.
Friday morning, September 27th.—This being mail-day, wrote several letters to England, and forwarded some newspapers. In the afternoon called upon several customers, and found out the stores of all. Rickards and Leeming dined with me. To bed early. Still a bad cold.
Saturday morning.—A regular day of business. Called upon every customer, and found them most civil and polite. I may mention Mr. Cuvillier, sen.; Mr. Masson, of Robertson and Co.'s; Mr. Colquhoun, of Scott, Tyer, and Co.'s; and Mr. Paterson, of Gillespie, Moffat, and Co.'s—four of the largest houses;—indeed, I cannot speak too highly of all. Dined, and took steam-vessel, The Queen, to Quebec. A cold, foggy night. Turned in at seven.
Sunday morning.—Found we had lain-to since one o'clock on account of the fog. Had a most refreshing sleep, and rose at seven to breakfast. I could not but admire the St. Lawrence River—the beauty of this noble stream at all points is enchanting. We passed Richelieu, where the corn is grown, in part, that is sent into England. We passed the lovely island of St. Helen's, and over the rapids of St. Mavey, Richelieu, 45 miles from Montreal. Thence Lake St. Peter, nine miles wide. The St. Lawrence does not average more than one mile. We then approach the Richelieu Rapids. The river again becomes interesting. The churches appear with their tin domes and spires. The rafts, with houses built upon them, are floating down the river like some moving world. We left the eastern townships on the right, south of the St. Lawrence, which join the State of Maine and Vermont on the left, or north. We pass Cape Health River, thirty miles behind which is Jackcartier, a settlement for the Irish. At Chasidiere, six miles from Quebec, we pass some great lumber or wood establishments, where ships load for England. We pass Daleam's Island and Point Levi, and approach the harbour, where forests of British shipmasts are seen along the shore, with Orleans Island a-head. Lumber coves abound here. The grim and powerful batteries, where all the ingenuity of military skill has been exhausted to produce another Gibraltar, are seen on the left.
Two o'clock, P.M.—We sojourned at Payne's Hotel. He is an Uxbridge man, and most attentive. We took a carriage to Montmorence Falls, and were much pleased. Straggling, snow-white cottages abound here for miles. Quebec, lat. 46° 59' 15"; long. 71° 13'.
I may here observe, that Lower Canada, embracing and including Montreal to the Gulf, about 400 miles down, has a population of from 600,000 to 700,000: Quebec and its suburbs has about 30,000. The vessels resorting to this port are about 1000 during the short season of five months. Quebec is situated on the north-west side of the St. Lawrence, with the River St. Charles on the north. The volume and depth of the St. Lawrence is unequalled: it moves with a speed of three or four miles an hour. The oceanic influence is great. To-day it is 30° below zero, and in the summer it is sometimes 100° above (Fahrenheit's scale).
We returned to the Plains of Abraham, where Wolfe fell, and a paltry monument is erected. This is a fine view. Near this is the cove where General Wolfe and the British troops crept and scrambled up to the summit of the heights, which resulted in the defeat of Montcalm in 1759, and the prostration of French power in Canada.
Monday morning.—Attended to business till one. Then took a drive to see the Indian village of Lorette. The squaws are not to my mind, although admired by others. The men get their living by hunting racoons, &c. They make beautiful work, some of which we bought, and returned. I had a beautiful drive on the St. Foy Road; quite in the English style—both houses, fields, gardens, and stables; decidedly the prettiest drive since I left England. I observed all the windows were double, and double doors, as the snow remains on the ground for six months together. To the Exchange and Library, where we had free access. The inclined plane leading to the citadel is 500 feet. On the top of the bastion is a covered way and gravel walk, with cannon pointing in every direction. Here is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding panorama. Within the citadel are the magazines, armoury, storehouses, &c., and the messrooms and barracks for the officers, covered with tin. This fortress combines every invention of science and precaution of art that consummate skill and ingenuity could suggest, for the protection and security of the city and garrison; and I should say the D—-l could not force it. The area of the space and works within is forty acres. The fortifications are continued all round the upper town, in bastions and solid masonry, and ramparts from 25 to 30 feet high, and of equal thickness, bristling with heavy cannon. There is a beautiful esplanade, or public promenade, which is much frequented. The guard are very strict, owing to Americans prying about very suspiciously at times.
Tuesday morning.—Finished my business satisfactorily. We visited the old Parliament-house, now a library and museum. There is also the French Roman Catholic cathedral in the Marketplace, and the English cathedral. The monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, the most noble general France ever had,—
Mortem virtus communem;
Famam historia;
Monumentum posteritas dedit.
or—
Valour gave a common death;
History a common fame;
Posterity a common monument.
is situated on the west side of Des Carriere's-street, leading from the Place d'Armes to the glacis of Cape Diamond. In front is a broad walk overlooking the Castle-gardens, the harbour, and the shore of Orleans. We had not time to visit the Chaudiere Falls, but took the fine steamer Montreal, and found ourselves at Montreal at seven on Wednesday morning, where we sojourned Tetue's Hotel, being sickened of the Exchange, at as they wanted to rob us. Attended to business all day, and had Mr. Kidson (Glasgow), Mr. Redpath, Mr. Hall, Mr. Easton, and Mr. A. M'Farlane to dinner.
Thursday.—At business all day. Rained incessantly. Dined with Mr. Geddes, who treated me like a prince. He has a nice wife and an amiable family. Supped and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Leeming, and appointed him our agent for the retail trade. Home, and to bed, and had a good night's rest.
Friday.—Rained incessantly. Found the benefit of my new rig-out of flannel and India-rubber boots. Visited the House of Assembly. The Speaker, my kind friend Mr. Cuvillier, had given me an order. He has £1000 a year, and the representatives two dollars a day. The Legislative Council Chamber is worth seeing. I spent the evening with Mr. Rickards. I finished up the most satisfactory business I had done in any town since I left home. Montreal is very flourishing—the metropolis of Canada—and will double its population, now 50,000, ere long, if Sir Charles Metcalfe is supported; but the French Canadians, and the Irish, who abound, led by their priests, are brewing dissatisfaction and discord. His councillors have just resigned, and a general election is taking place. May he succeed is my earnest wish!
Saturday, 6th.—We left Montreal at twelve at noon per stage to Lachine. We passed the mountains and Sir C. Metcalfe's private house on the road. We took a steamer (the Chieftain) here to Dickenson's Landing, thirty-eight miles. We passed on the left, at starting, an Indian village, called Cachnawago, where the Ojibbeway tribe live. We saw several in their canoes. On the left, just before we landed, we saw the Beauharnois Canal, of E.G. Wakefield notoriety. He must either have been bought, or, if not, he certainly must have been a fool to allow the canal to be cut on the American side of the St. Lawrence. The Yankees are thirsting for British blood; and, should they be successful in Canada, this costly canal goes. We now took stage for sixteen miles, on a planked road, and with a first-rate team. On the left were the rapids of the St. Lawrence, or Cascades. I would not have believed had I not seen a small steamer, drawing about four feet of water, going down at an awful rate. I expected every minute it would have been dashed to atoms. How they escape, eight or ten a day, as they go up the canal and return that day, is astonishing. This is the most incredible sight I have witnessed. Roebuck, the Member for Bath, was born here. On arriving at Chateau-du-Luc we got on board a very fine boat, the Highlander, Captain Stearns—a fine fellow. After proceeding forty-one miles, we reached the Cornwall Canal, where we were much impeded by seven locks. This splendid canal, the finest in the world, is one hundred feet wide, and the locks fifty-two: it is twelve miles long, and about fourteen feet deep. We now pass from Lower to Upper Canada, direct from east to west; and about six miles forward we find the State of New York on the left. About thirty miles farther we call at Ogdensburgh, on the American side, and Prescott right opposite, where the windmill stands dilapidated from the skirmish the patriots had here, when the English demolished the lot. We called at Maitland for wood, and thence to Brockville, and glided up the Thousand Islands: there really are a thousand islands between here and Kingston. The foliage on the trees was grand—all colours. It passed all description; and the trees actually grow out of the rocks with which all the islands are covered. About ten miles from Kingston, on one of the islands, lives the notorious Bill Johnston, the patriot. We arrived at Kingston at four P.M., 216 miles in twenty-eight hours.
Sunday.—Sojourned at Lambton-house for the sake of its name, and walked about this very poor town. It is a straggling place. The late Government-house is neither elegant nor commodious, and is now a Sunday-school: still it is the only house of any importance in the neighbourhood. We walked down to a spring of mineral water, resembling Harrogate, and one spring much stronger—kept by a hearty couple, Bone and his wife, from Plymouth. They propose getting a large hotel built by next year, to vie with Saratoga. I wish them success. They were very kind. Mr. King came and spent the evening with me.
Monday.—Found the tradesmen of the right sort: still their operations are confined. They bitterly complain, and I think justly, of Lord Stanley removing the seat of government. Rents are reduced half, and many houses are standing empty, and are likely to remain so. Many had built and enlarged their premises, through the assurance of Sir C. Metcalfe that the Government would not be removed. Perhaps it was not his fault: his councillors became, or rather wished to become, his masters; and the removal took place during the illness of Sir C. Bagot. There is a faction in these provinces who will bring about rebellion and an outbreak worse than those of 1837 and 1838. I hope I may be deceived. One thing is certain, the Governor will not get a majority, he having dissolved his Parliament; and if he continues to govern it must be with his Council, without representatives. My warm-hearted Herefordshire friend, Mr. Wilson, drove me to see the gaol, which is well and wisely governed, and excellently regulated in every respect. The men are employed as shoemakers, ropemakers, blacksmiths, tailors, carpenters, and stonecutters, and are building the prison, which is far advanced. The net profits the last year were £3000, after paying all expenses. The female prisoners are occupied in needlework. Among them was a beautiful girl of twenty, who had been there nearly three years. She acted as bearer of secret despatches for the self-styled patriots on Navy Island during the Canadian insurrection; sometimes dressed as a girl, and carrying them in her stays; sometimes attired as a boy, and secreting them in the lining of her hat. In the latter character she always rode as a boy. She could govern any horse that any man could ride, and could drive four in hand with the best whip in those parts. Setting forth on one of her patriotic missions, she appropriated to herself the first horse she could lay her hands on; and this offence had brought her where I saw her. She had a lovely face, though there was a lurking devil in her bright eye. I dined with my friend, and went on board the steamer Princess Royal, for Toronto, at eight.
Tuesday morning, six o'clock.—We had arrived at Coburg, a thriving town on Lake Ontario, where I left letters for the importers of lace. It is a rising town of 3000 inhabitants, and will soon rank high in Upper Canada. We passed Port Hope, another rising town; and on the right Bondhead and Windsor. Lake Ontario is a wonder indeed—216 miles long, and 90 miles wide—a truly magnificent sheet of water, very rough at times. We arrived at Stone's Hotel, Toronto, at three o'clock, P.M. The country round is flat, and bare of scenic interest; but the town itself is full of life, motion, bustle, and business. The streets are well paved and lighted with gas—the only place in Canada, except Montreal, where gas is introduced; the houses large and good; the shops excellent—many of them may vie with the best shops in thriving country-towns in England. There are a handsome church, courthouse, and public offices, and many commodious private residences. It is matter of regret that here, too, political differences run high. I visited the Reform Association, where the noted Baldwin was holding forth, and preaching sedition under pretence of abusing the Governor-General. This body are spreading discord, by their branches, all through Canada: where it will end is to be seen. I saw all the importers, and retired to rest tired, at eleven o'clock.
Population of Toronto, 20,000.
Wednesday.—This town must rise in commerce, and must stand second to Montreal. They are active business men, and have lots of back-country to depend upon—good land, and the farmers of the old Dutch sort. The women must necessarily wear more clothes than in England, in consequence of the climate. At two o'clock I took the Eclipse mail-boat, Captain John Gordon, from Aberdeen; and let me observe, all these captains of steamers here are fine fellows, not very well paid—salary not more than £300 a year. We were again on Lake Ontario, and passed Port Credit, Oakville, and Wellington-square on the right: healthy towns, but small. The farmers here all reserve a good portion of wood for fire, and rails and planks for domestic purposes. At the bottom of the lake we passed through a short canal into Burlington Bay—a beautiful sheet of water; and arrived at Hamilton, at the terminus of the navigation.
Thursday morning.—Hamilton is a rising new town with about 6000 inhabitants. It has many advantages, and must increase rapidly. There is the store of J. Buchanan and Co., where my friend Mr. Harris is a partner, as large as 5, Bow-churchyard, and they have about fifty branches. I found them all busy. I attended a cattle-show which pleased me much: some very fine cattle competed for the different prizes. There is a good walk above the town which, commands a fine view of the distant country. I walked to Dunedern, the mansion of Sir Allan M'Nab, who made such a formidable stand for the constitution against the rebels L.J. Papineau, Lafontaine, and Baldwin.
Friday.—Returned by the same steamer to Toronto, and finished up my business satisfactorily. Took a walk with Mr. Fisken to see the new college, which is at a stand-still for want of funds, and saw the Government observatory; and then visited the stone prison, which I did not like, as there is no work for the prisoners—all lying idly about—great contrast to Kingston. The town all in confusion nominating the candidates. In Toronto all the footpaths are planked with wood, which is very comfortable to walk upon.
Saturday.—Took a steamer at seven, A.M., for Niagara. Arrived at that town, of 1800 inhabitants, about twelve. A small place, of 3000 inhabitants, on the left, is Young's-town, on the American side, where their flag was flying in opposition to our union-jack. There is a fort at both places. Seven miles farther up the Niagara river, which we were now in, having left Ontario, we landed at Queenstown, a small place right opposite Lewistown, U.S. Here Brock's monument was erected and blown up. We then took rail seven miles, passed Drummondsville battle-ground, and arrived at Clifton-house.
